UNIVERSITY   OF   CALIFORNIA 

COLLEGE    OF    AGRICULTURE 
AGRICULTURAL   EXPERIMENT  STATION 

CIRCULAR  No.  237 

April,  1922 

DIRECTIONS  FOR  THE  TANNING  AND  DRESSING 

OF  FURS 

By  JOSEPH  DIXON* 

Contribution  from  the  Museum  of  Vertebrate  Zoology,  University  of  California 


The  following  directions  for  dressing  small  skins  of  fur-bearing 
mammals  is  based  on  the  personal  experience  of  the  writer  during  the 
past  twelve  years,  both  at  home  and  in  the  museum.  Skins  in  the 
California  Museum  of  Vertebrate  Zoology  tanned  by  him  in  1909  are 
still  (in  1921)  in  good  condition.  There  has  been  no  appreciable 
change  of  color  of  the  fur  or  weakening  of  the  fiber  of  the  skin  in  this 
time,  although  the  work  was  done  by  an  amateur.  Other  beginners 
using  the  same  methods  have  secured  satisfactory  results. 

Thick  or  greasy  skins,  such  as  those  of  the  bear  and  coon,  should  be 
shaved  down  with  a  tanner 's  knife  and  de-greased  by  soaking  overnight 
in  gasoline  before  the  tan  liquor  is  applied.  This  involves  considerable 
experience  and  skill  in  the  use  of  the  knife  ;  therefore  such  skins  should 
be  avoided,  at  least  in  the  beginning.  Wildcat  skins  are  perhaps  best 
to  begin  on,  and  then  skins  of  the  gray  fox  and  coyote  may  be  tried. 

In  warm  weather,  prompt  skinning  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  hair 
from  coming  out.  Skins  that  are  to  be  dressed  at  home  can  be  handled 
best  if  they  are  taken  off  "flat"  rather  than  tl cased, "  as  is  customary 
where  raw  skins  are  to  be  sold  to  fur  buyers.  To  do  this,  opening 
cuts  should  be  made  where  shown  by  the  dotted  lines  in  the  diagram, 
figure  1,  a.  The  tail  should  be  split  down  the  under  side  and  the 
entire  bone  removed.  The  toes  should  be  skinned  out  and  the  bones 
removed.  Particular  care  should  be  exercised  not  to  cut  the  skin 
when  working  around  the  eyes,  ears,  and  nose.  The  ears  should  be 
skinned  out  so  that  they  will  turn  completely  wrong  side  out.  All  fat 
and  flesh  should  then  be  cleaned  off  the  skin  and  plenty  of  salt  rubbed 
in  all  over  the  flesh  side,  especially  into  every  corner  and  fold.  It 
should  then  be  rolled  up  with  the  fur  side  out  and  left  overnight. 

*  The  substance  of  this  circular  appeared  as  a  copyrighted  article  in  Forest 
and  Stream  for  July,  1917. 


The  next  morning  it  should  be  unrolled  and  examined  for  soft  spots 
where  the  salt  has  not  drawn  out  the  moisture.  If  any  such  spots  are 
found  they  should  be  rubbed  well  with  salt  and,  in  any  case,  the  whole 
skin  re-salted,  and  again  rolled  up.  The  following  day  the  skin  should 
be  unrolled,  the  salt  shaken  off,  and  the  skin  stretched  to  its  natural  size 
and  shape.  It  should  then  be  dried,  skin  side  out,  in  an  airy,  shady 
place. 

When  a  dried  skin  is  to  be  dressed  it  should  first  be  placed  in  water 
until  thoroughly  softened.  This  process  can  be  hastened  by  working  and 
twisting  the  skin  about  from  time  to  time.  The  soaking  should  not  last 
more  than  twenty-four  hours ;  and  in  warm  weather  skins  left  in  water 
over  twelve  hours  may  ' '  slip, ' '  so  the  quicker  the  skin  is  softened  the 
safer  it  will  be. 


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Fig.  1 

When  softened,  the  skin  should  be  placed  on  a  half-round  beam 
(figure  2,  a)  and  all  skin-like  tissue  and  grease  on  the  flesh  side  removed 
with  a  square-edged  steel  fleshing  tool.  The  back  of  a  thin-bladed 
butcher-knife  can  be  used  for  this  work,  after  a  piece  of  soft  wood  has 
been  stuck  on  the  point  of  the  knife  so  as  to  make  a  second  handle. 

If  the  fur  as  well  as  the  skin  itself  is  very  greasy  the  skin  should 
be  hung  up  to  drain  for  twelve  hours  and  then  soaked  in  gasoline  over- 
night to  remove  the  grease.  Be  sure  to  keep  the  gasoline  away  from  fire. 

A  tablespoonful  of  the  washing  powder  known  as  ' '  Pearline ' '  should 
now  be  dissolved  in  two  quarts  of  hike- warm  (not  hot)  water,  and  the 
skin  placed  in  it  and  worked  until  thoroughly  limp,  with  no  hard  dry 
spots  left.  The  pelt  should  then  be  hung  up  to  drain  for  a  few  minutes 
(do  not  wring  it  out),  after  which  the  tan  liquor  should  be  painted  on 
the  flesh  side  with  a  clean  paint  brush. 


To  make  the  tan  liquor,  dissolve  2  ounces  of  salt  and  2  ounces  of 
powdered  alum  in  a  quart  of  boiling  water.  When  this  is  cool  add 
slowly,  while  stirring,  4  ounces  commercial  sulphuric  acid  and  then 
2  ounces  washing  soda  (not  " cooking"  soda).  The  liquor  is  ready  to 
use  when  cold  and  keeps  well  in  bottles;  but  the  bottles  will  burst  if 
tightly  corked  at  first. 


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Fig.  2 


In  thin  skins,  two,  and  in  thick  skins  three,  coats  of  the  tan  liquor 
should  be  applied  at  six-hour  intervals.  After  the  last  application 
of  tan  liquor  the  pelt  should  be  hung  up  for  ten  hours.  The  entire 
skin  should  then  be  soaked  for  ten  minutes  in  a  neutralizing  solution 
made  by  dissolving  a  handful  of  washing  soda  in  half  a  gallon  of  cold 
water.  This  will  neutralize  any  acid  that  may  remain  in  the  pores  of 
the  skin.  The  acid  would  in  time  weaken  the  skin  if  left  unneutralized. 
The  skin  should  then  be  thoroughly  rinsed  in  clear  cold  water.  A  couple 
of  light  sticks,  with  the  ends  sharpened  and  placed  in  the  pads  of  the 
feet  (figure  1,  b),  will  keep  the  legs  extended  and  insure  uniform 
drying. 


"When  the  skin  is  nearly  dry  and  turns  white  on  the  flesh  side,  it  is 
time  to  begin  working  and  stretching  it  to  insure  a  soft  finish.  The 
secret  of  a  good  soft  finish  lies  in  thoroughly  working  the  skin.  This 
may  be  done  by  pulling  the  skin  back  and  forth  over  a  large  flat  file 
which  has  been  tightly  clamped  in  a  vise,  or  else  through  a  large  iron 
ring  after  the  skin  has  been  folded  up  with  the  fur  side  in.  The  pelt 
should  be  frequently  re-rolled  and  turned  about  during  this  process. 


Fig.  3 

If  several  skins  are  to  be  dressed,  it  would  pay  to  take  four  two-by- 
three-inch  scantlings,  six  feet  long,  and  make  a  frame  (figure  3)  to 
hold  the  skins  while  they  are  being  scraped  with  the  special  instrument 
called  a  "crutch  knife"  (figure  2,  b).  The  crutch  knife  is  made  from 
a  common  single-blade  cabbage  chopper.  The  arm  piece  can  be  made 
from  a  piece  of  soft  one-inch  lumber,  and  should  be  just  long  enough 
so  that  when  the  upper  end  is  placed  under  the  armpit  the  fingers  can 
readily  grasp  the  handle  of  the  chopper. 

When  the  skin  is  nearly  dry  it  should  be  placed  in  the  frame  flesh 
side  up,  the  upper  bar  dropped  on  it,  and  the  bar  clamped  tight  by 
pushing  down  on  the  lock  (figure  3,  a).  The  skin  should  be  held  by 
the  left  hand  while  the  blade  of  the  crutch  knife  is  pushed  down  over 
the  taught  skin,  with  a  scraping  motion,  by  the  right  arm  and  hand. 


A  little  whiting  or  chalk  dusted  on  the  skin  will  help  the  knife  to  take 
hold.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  knife  is  pushed  straight  down; 
if  it  slips  sideways  it  will  cut  the  skin  (see  figure  2,  c). .  By  turning 
the  skin  about  in  the  frame,  all  the  corners  and  edges  can  be  reached. 
If  the  skin  is  held  taut  in  the  frame  and  whipped  vigorously  with  an 
old  buggy  whip,  this  treatment  will  fluff  out  and  clean  the  fur.  A  nice 
smooth  finish  can  be  secured  by  sandpapering  any  rough  or  thick  spots 
on  the  flesh  side. 

Dressing  Rabbit  Skins. — The  skins  of  our  wild  rabbits  and  hares  are 
so  thin  that  their  pelts  are  difficult  to  dress.  The  large  domesticated 
fur  rabbits,  on  the  other  hand,  such  as  the  Black  Flemish,  Checkered 
Giant,  and  French  Silver,  have  thick  hides  which  may  be  readily  tanned 
at  home.  Eabbit  skins  are  usually  taken  off  flat  (figure  1,  b) .  In  flesh- 
ing any  rabbit  skin  it  is  advisable  to  start  at  the  tail  and  work  toward 
the  head.  After  the  skin  is  fleshed  it  should  be  thoroughly  salted  and 
then  put  aside,  rolled  up,  for  a  couple  of  days.  It  should  then  be  hung 
up  in  a  cool  place  and  stretched  loosely  so  that  the  skin  will  dry  without 
any  folds  or  large  wrinkles. 

"When  dry,  the  skins  should  be  tanned  by  the  method  given  in  the 
present  paper ;  or,  if  more  convenient,  after  being  thoroughly  relaxed, 
they  may  be  placed  in  a  barrel  or  crock  containing  the  following 
tanning  solution:  Water,  5  gallons;  salt,  3  pounds;  commercial  sul- 
phuric acid,  16  ounces.  The  skins  should  be  stirred  up  frequently 
when  first  put  into  the  tan  liquor.  Thin  skins  should  remain  in  the 
tan  liquor  three  weeks,  thick  skins  four  weeks.  The  skins  should  then 
be  neutralized  in  a  salsoda  solution  and  finished  as  previously  described. 

It  is  best  to  dry  rabbit  skins  slowly,  working  them  each  day  until 
they  are  properly  softened  and  thoroughly  dry. 

Transmitted  March  7,  1921. 


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282. 


285. 
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298. 


Report  of  Progress  in  Cereal  Investiga- 
tions. 

Vine  Pruning  in  California,  Part  I. 

Vine  Pruning  in  California,  Part  II. 

Utilization  of  the  Nitrogen  and  Organic 
Matter  in  Septic  and  Imhoff  Tank 
Sludges. 

Irrigation  and  Soil  Conditions  in  the 
Sierra  Nevada  Foothills,  California. 

Melaxuma  of  the  Walnut,  "Juglans  regia." 

Citrus  Diseases  of  Florida  and  Cuba 
Compared  with  Those  of  California. 

Size  Grades  for  Ripe  Olives. 

A  Spotting  of  Citrus  Fruits  Due  to  the 
Action  of  Oil  Liberated  from  the  Rind. 

Experiments  with  Stocks  for  Citrus. 

Growing  and  Grafting  Olive  Seedlings. 

A  Comparison  of  Annual  Cropping,  Bi- 
ennial Cropping,  and  Green  Manures 
on  the  Yield  of  Wheat. 

Feeding  Dairy  Calves  in  California. 

Preliminary  Report  on  Kearney  Vineyard 
Experimental  Drain. 

The  Cultivation  of  Belladonna  in  Cali- 
fornia. 

The  Pomegranate. 

Grain  Sorghums. 

Irrigation  of  Rice  in  California. 

Irrigation  of  Alfalfa  in  the  Sacramento 
Valley. 

Trials  with  California  Silage  Crops  for 
Dairy  Cows. 

The  Olive  Insects  of  California. 

The  Milk  Goat  in  California. 

Commercial  Fertilizers. 

Vinegar  from  Waste  Fruits. 

Bean  Culture  in  California. 

The  Almond  in  California. 

Seedless  Raisin  Grapes. 


No. 
299. 
300. 
304. 

308. 


309. 

310. 
312. 
313. 
316. 
317. 
318. 
320. 
321. 
323. 

324. 

325. 


328. 
330. 
331. 
332. 
334. 

335. 

336. 

337. 
339. 

340. 


The  Use  of  Lumber  on  California  Farms. 

Commercial  Fertilizers. 

A  Study  on  the  Effects  of  Freezes  on 
Citrus  in  California. 

I.  Fumigation  with  Liquid  Hydrocyanic 
Acid.  II.  Physical  and  Chemical  Pro- 
perties of  Liquid  Hydrocyanic  Acid. 

I.  The  Carob  in  California.  II.  Nutritive 
Value  of  the  Carob  Bean. 

Plum  Pollination. 

Mariout  Barley. 

Pruning  Young  Deciduous  Fruit  Trees. 

The  Kaki  or  Oriental  Persimmon. 

Selections  of  Stocks  in  Citrus  Propagation. 

The  Effects  of  Alkali  on  Citrus  Trees. 

Control  of  the  Coyote  in  California. 

Commercial  Production  of  Grape  Syrup. 

Heavy  vs.  Light  Grain  Feeding  for  Dairy 
Cows. 

Storage  of  Perishable  Fruit  at  Freezing 
Temperatures. 

Rice  Irrigation  Measurements  and  Ex- 
periments in  Sacramento  Valley,  1914- 
1919. 

Prune  Growing  in  California. 

Dehydration  of  Fruits. 

Phylloxera-Resistant  Stocks. 

Walnut  Culture  in  California. 

Preliminary  Volume  Tables  for  Second- 
Growth  Redwoods. 

Cocoanut  Meal  as  a  Feed  for  Dairy  Cows 
and  Other  Livestock. 

The  Preparation  of  Nicotine  Dust  as  an 
Insecticide. 

Some  Factors  of  Dehydrater  Efficiency. 

The  Relative  Cost  of  Making  Logs  from 
Small  and  Large  Timber. 

Control  of  the  Pocket  Gopher  in  California. 


CIRCULARS 

No.  No. 

70.  Observations    on    the    Status    of    Corn  165. 

Growing  in  California. 

82.  The  Common  Ground  Squirrels  of  Cali-  166. 

fornia.  167. 

87.  Alfalfa.  169. 

110.  Green  Manuring  in  California.  170. 

111.  The  Use  of  Lime  and  Gypsum  on  Cali- 

fornia Soils.  172. 

113.  Correspondence  Courses  in  Agriculture.  173. 

115.  Grafting  Vinifera  Vineyards.  174. 

126.  Spraying  for  the  Grape  Leaf  Hopper.  175. 

127.  House  Fumigation. 

128.  Insecticide  Formulas.  176. 

129.  The  Control  of  Citrus  Insects. 

130.  Cabbage  Growing  in  California.  177. 
135.  Official  Tests  of  Dairy  Cows.  178. 
138.  The  Silo  in  California  Agriculture.  179. 
144.  Oidium  or  Powdery  Mildew  of  the  Vine. 

148.  "Lungworms."  181. 

151.  Feeding  and  Management  of  Hogs.  182. 

152.  Some  Observations  on  the  Bulk  Handling 

of  Grain  in  California.  183. 

153.  Announcement    of    the    California    State  184. 

Dairy  Cow  Competition,  1916-18.  188. 

154.  Irrigation    Practice    in    Growing    Small  189. 

Fruits  in  California.  190. 

155.  Bovine  Tuberculosis.  193. 

157.  Control  of  the  Pear  Scab.  198. 

158.  Home  and  Farm  Canning.  201. 

159.  Agriculture  in  the  Imperial  Valley.  202. 

160.  Lettuce  Growing  in  California. 

161.  Potatoes  in  California.  203. 
164.  Small  Fruit  Culture  in  California.  205. 


Fundamentals    of    Sugar    Beet    Culture 

under  California  Conditions. 
The  County  Farm  Bureau. 
Feeding  Stuffs  of  Minor  Importance. 
The  1918  Grain  Crop. 
Fertilizing  California  Soils  for  the   1918 

Crop. 
Wheat  Culture. 

The  Construction  of  the  Wood-Hoop  Silo. 
Farm  Drainage  Methods. 
Progress  Report  on  the  Marketing  and 

Distribution  of  Milk. 
Hog  Cholera  Prevention  and  the  Serum 

Treatment. 
Grain  Sorghums. 

The  Packing  of  Apples  in  California. 
Factors  of  Importance  in  Producing  Milk 

of  Low  Bacterial  Count. 
Control  of  the  California  Ground  Squirrel. 
Extending  the  Area  of  Irrigated  Wheat  in 

California  for  1918. 
Infectious  Abortion  in  Cows. 
A  Flock  of  Sheep  on  the  Farm. 
Lambing  Sheds. 
Winter  Forage  Crops. 
Agriculture  Clubs  in  California. 
A  Study  of  Farm  Labor  in  California. 
Syrup  from  Sweet  Sorghum. 
Helpful  Hints  to  Hog  Raisers. 
County  Organizations  for  Rural  Fire  Con- 
trol. 
Peat  as  a  Manure  Substitute. 
Blackleg. 


CIRCULARS— Continued 


No. 

206.  Jack  Cheese. 

208.  Summary  of  the  Annual  Reports  of  the 

Farm  Advisors  of  California. 

209.  The  Function  of  the  Farm  Bureau. 

210.  Suggestions  to  the  Settler  in  California. 
212.  Salvaging  Rain-Damaged  Prunes. 

214.  Seed   Treatment   for   the   Prevention   of 

Cereal  Smuts. 

215.  Feeding  Dairy  Cows  in  California. 

217.  Methods    for    Marketing    Vegetables    in 

California. 

218.  Advanced  Registry  Testing  of  Dairy  Cows. 

219.  The  Present  Status  of  Alkali. 

220.  Unfermented  Fruit  Juices. 

221.  How   California  is   Helping  People  Own 

Farms  and  Rural  Homes. 

223.  The  Pear  Thrips. 

224.  Control  of  the  Brown  Apricot  Scale  and 

the   Italian   Pear   Scale   on   Deciduous 
Fruit  Trees. 


No. 


225. 

227. 
228. 
229. 
230. 

231. 


236. 


237. 


Propagation  of  Vines. 

Plant  Diseases  and  Pest  Control. 

Vineyard  Irrigation  in  Arid  Climates. 

Cordon  Pruning. 

Testing  Milk,  Cream,  and  Skim  Milk  for 

Butterfat. 
The  Home  Vineyard. 

232.  Harvesting     and      Handling      California 

Cherries  for  Eastern  Shipment. 

233.  Artificial  Incubation. 

234.  Winter   Injury  to   Young  Walnut  Trees 

During  1921-22. 

235.  Soil  Analysis  and  Soil  and  Plant  Inter- 

relations. 

The  Common  Hawks  and  Owls  of  Cali- 
fornia from  the  Standpoint  of  the 
Rancher. 

Directions  for  the  Tanning  and  DressinS 
of  Furs. 


